Polk Audio DB6501 Front Speaker Install + Center

[pokey]

The following is the DIY write-up of my speaker install. Included is the install of 6.5" Polk audio components and the install of my center channel. They sound great and I would definitely do again but a big job and the tear apart was a BIG pain. I'm not going to cover everything but try and concentrate on the information I couldn't find on the internet 'G8 boards'. Some of my info came from "Xfactor" on that other G8 board so I have to give him credit. Search out his thread also.

Center Speaker:

By far the hardest part for me was getting this car apart without Fing anything up. And I did indeed F some shit up…but nothing money and super glue can't fix! Lol…so anyway lets get into it.

This cover is a BITCH!!

1. As others have mentioned on DIY write-ups you start at the window and pry-up. (I went to Harbor Freight and bought some plastic pry bars.)
2. There are 4 clips at the corners and one in the front middle. There are also some plastic tabs in the front so don't pry at the front or you will break these.
3. When the four clips are released pull the cover up (moving towards the window a little) so you don't break these front tabs.

In this picture you can see the mounting locations of the cover and my finished install.



I used an old Rockford Fosgate speaker I had from a previous setup with a resistor on the positive wire (as others have done to quiet it down a little, look for "resistor mod") and a piece of 1/4" MDF as an adapter bracket.

[pokey]

Disassembly:

Remove a-pillar covers. (cover along the sides of the window which says "Airbag") 2 clips and 2 tabs at the bottom of the piece pointed down.

1. Pull at the top to release the two clips, (easy)
2. Pull up to get the piece past the dash tweeter cover (a little harder)
3. Swing the piece out of your way, you don't have to take off the plastic 'cable'.

4. Remove dash side covers
5. Remove door defrost vent cover (side of dash)
6. Remove lower kick panel (two torx screws each)

Tweeter cover; Pull up/out towards your head. Not straight out (or you will break it like I did) not straight up, but at an angle.

In this pic I put blue tape where the clips are. Hardest clip to release is the one closest to defrost vents. (good luck with that one, I broke both of mine, give that end extra care. And these trim pieces are about 80 bucks a piece.



Here's a pic with the cover removed and the location of the stock tweeters.



Install:

I found many mentions from people who fabricated there own bracket to mount their tweeters. You probably DO NOT have to do this, this 'advice' from others only slowed me down. In this pic you can see mine mounted and I still have about 1/4" clearance under the trim. I used the stock screw in stock location through the bottom of the mounting cup.



To be safe I cut off some of the mounting cup to gain a little extra clearance. As for sound, "imaging" is great no worries.

Speaker wire routed easily through the dash and behind the kick panel covers to my crossovers.

[pokey]

Disassembly:

Door panel; Screws along the bottom, front edge, under arm rest, one behind the door handle.
Metal clips on the top, plastic clips back edge and front edge.
Like the back door panels start at the top pulling towards yourself to release the metal clips on the top and then move your way around.

Install:

Speakers; find Xfactor's posting, he does a great job explaining the install.

1. Remove the stock bracket
2. Line up the Polk bracket, 2 original screws are used, 2 new ones have to be drilled.
3. Cut a piece of Dynamat (or similar product) to mount your speaker on.

Wire; A disadvantage of components is you have to run your own wire. Because I mounted my crossovers in the car I had to run (2) wires, one which connects into the stock wire harness and brings the signal to the crossover and one to bring the signal back to the speaker (from the crossover).

I read most people had issues running wire into the doors. For the front I did not find it too hard only time consuming. If I can do, you can too!

1. Remove the car side of the door boot. Four tabs total, you need to release 2 of them. I used a putty knife and a flat screw driver (top and side) pushing in both at the same time and pulling. Here's a close-up of what you are fighting with.



2. Next to pull the wire I used a piece of 12 gauge home wire (wire coat hanger would work) fed from the inside of the car through the boot, then taped my wire and a smaller piece of scrap wire to pull back through the last piece once in the car. This is probably the most important picture I can offer on the drivers side.



3. The green, white, brown wires you see taped up? Those are the wires going into your door, follow them with your coat hanger and you will feel it in the boot. (Push your wire along the bottom of those wires)

4. Be careful to not poke a hole in your door boot. Make sure your wire has a dull point.
5. When through you can tape your wires to the pull wire and pull into the car.



(gray wire hanging down is the scrap wire I used to pull my second wire through)



6. Then repeat the process to get the wire into the door.

Pictures are for drivers side. Passenger side, process is the same only a little easier. To find where the wire would run into the car I was able to "stick" my finger into the hole (no jokes please, lol) and see it where I needed to go into the car.

The Dynamat Extreme I put inside the doors



A finished pic

[pokey]

I mounted mine in the car on the floor to the outside of the seats. I did this for two reasons. I could get to the adjustments anytime I wanted and most importantly the water I found in my doors. I didn't think getting these electronic gizmos wet would be a good idea.

Trim Disassembly:

1. Move seat forward
2. Pull up rear cover only far enough to release clips
3. Pull out towards yourself



4. Move seat back
5. Pull up on back to release back 'clip', (Pull up only on the back and only high enough to release the clip)

Pic showing the bottom of the trim and white clip you are releasing.



6. Slide forward seat track cover (you just released) to get front tab thing past the seat track then lift out.





7. Pull straight up on what GM calls carpet retainer.

Here it is lying on it side so you can see the tabs and clips



The mounting location of the crossover (I used some Velcro) Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of it wired up but this location worked great and I can get to the settings from under the front seats from the back seat area.



In Summary:

Well that is it, I hope these pictures and descriptions help remove some anxiety and help prevent you from breaking anything. I spent about 3 weekends putzing around taking my time for everything; front and rear doors and dash speakers with Dynamat Extreme. Let me know if there are any questions. Good Luck!

[pokey]

Bonus Tip!

Thanks to Wicked Mom, I found out there is a TSB out for water leaks by the side mirrors. And of course I did notice, albeit only once, some drops of water getting into my car when driving in a rain storm. I recommend completing this while you have the doors open, why not right?

1. Remove the covers behind the mirrors
2. Pull out towards you the bottom of the cover
(just enough to release the clip)
3. Pull down and out



The TSB is to put some silicone sealant and seal the small hole (with a black pin in it) to the right of the hole for the white clip / pin thing.

http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.p...er-Compartment

(Don't know if it will help but I'm glad I did it for piece of mind!)

[parish8]

is this your only mod for sound? did it make a dramatic diference in sound. i am not big into sound stuff but the stock system sounds really bad and i might be willing to swap some speakers if it made a big diference.

[pokey]

is this your only mod for sound? did it make a dramatic diference in sound. i am not big into sound stuff but the stock system sounds really bad and i might be willing to swap some speakers if it made a big diference.

Huge difference. I don't believe I have found a person out there who was disappointed in upgrading their speakers in the G8. Any upgrade to any brand is worth it IMO.

I did:
Polk DB651's in the rear doors
Polk DB6501 in the front doors / dash
Rockford Fosgate 3.5 inch in center (w/resistor)

I think also helping the sound alot was the Dynamat I put inside of the doors. This is all I'm going to do except some more Dynamat behind the rear seat and trunk to quiet things down and since I have a bunch left.

Link to my rear door write-up: http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.p...r-Door-Install

[MaxPower]

Wish I had a thread like this about 4 days ago when I broke my pass. seat track trim installing my backup camera

AWESOME write-up! I've got a replacement set of speakers on the way, and this write-up will fit the bill!!

[DJ_JonnyV]

Wish I had a thread like this about 4 days ago when I broke my pass. seat track trim installing my backup camera

AWESOME write-up! I've got a replacement set of speakers on the way, and this write-up will fit the bill!!

Ha, i was thinking of you when reading through this!!! BTW, let me know when you want to tackle your G8 with the Flex.

[JoshHefnerX]

Thanks for the writeup! Did you happen to get pictures of the backside of the removed panels (center grill, tweeter panel, ect)? That would better show the clips and how they're positioned/angled.

Josh